Finish carving the curls in back. You can actually use any hair style you like. Original Hitty has a very simple style, not the ringlets I've done on Patience.
Side and back with more hair detail. I used my 11/5 and 11/3 gouges to do this hair, but you could use as much detail as you think looks good with whatever gouge works for you. I added more before I decided she was ready to sand.
Because Hitty's head and lips are so small, I've also carved these lips on a stick so that you can see the cuts themselves better. If you have a piece of wood, it wouldn't hurt to practice these steps first for yourself. The stick also illustrates well that our mouths aren't on a flat surface, but go around our teeth in a close-to-90-degree-angle.
Here we see the same step done on Patience. On the stick I used my 11/30 gouge. On Patience I used the 11/3. Keep them sharp or they will rip the lip edges off!
Notice that I haven't gone around the corners of the lips. That's because the lips should tuck in at the corners when finished, not protrude.
Also, I've tried not to let the lips migrate down the front of her face and end up too low proportionally.
With the same gouge you used to carve above and below the mouth, lightly cut across the center line dividing the lips. My first cut across Patience's mouth is a little too high on her right (our left) side. Too bad we can't see these things when they happen, and stop it then! I used this picture to show you that it does happen to all of us. Then I used the same gouge to lower it a bit.
You might want to draw a light line across the lips to mark the center division, then it is lightly cut in with the knife. Too deep will take the fullness of a young mouth away. In the practice stick picture, I've started the cut on half of the mouth, and the other half still shows the drawn line. I've also used a small gouge to make an indention at the corners of the lips to make the fold of the muscle there. The face needs that shadow a little bit.
And finally, a knife is used to finish the center line of the lips and finesse them into what we want. The technical woodcarving term for this is "picking at it," and it's the cause of many unmitigated disasters. While it's almost impossible not to pick, learn to stop. Right before you do, don't. If something really needs fixed, do that, and then quit. She'll get old in a hurry.
Note that Patience's face looks rough and a little uneven here. Clean up anything that needs to be done with carving tools, and then leave it for sanding.
Now see how easy those lips were?
Start looking at all the people around you and notice the secondary profile. Soon you'll even be seeing it in animals. I find it to be the most visible in young people with smooth faces. Notice that, from the side view, the corners of the lips come back as far as the fronts of the eyes, generally. That means that the area in front of the cheeks and eyes is still a basic wedge to form the nose and mouth mound. Also, the fullest part of a child's cheek is at the corner of the lips, unless they have a big smile on their faces. The fullness of cheeks goes out toward the front, not the sides. I feel that the sides of faces are the most ignored areas of all carved faces. The front of the ear is about halfway back on the side of the skull. That means that there is a large area between profile and ears that needs to be shaped correctly and evenly. However, from up here on my High Horse I will just confess that mine are hardly even even the first time, and often not at all. You cannot use your blades on such small faces as Hitty in the same manner on both sides, even if you think you are. One side will always angle outward as it goes back toward the hair more than the other. Just look at your carving from every direction to try to prevent this from happening. Or in my case, to fix it after it has already happened. All of subtractive sculpture is a "fix." You take a block of wood and "fix" it until it looks like you want. Or you throw it in the fireplace...
Don't touch the nose! Lips are next. I'm doing pictures right now.
Believe it or not, there is a huge correlation between the scanned in drawings and the lines on these pictures. On this picture, note the pencil line that outlines the edge of Patience's secondary profile. The secondary profile is identified on the drawing. It loaded a little small, so I may do it again and try for size so you can see it clearer. Note that the line goes over the eyebrow, around the eye socket, around the front edge of the cheek, and to the top of the chin. The front of the cheeks is pushed back by the shaping of the nose and mouth area. Note that you can see half of all the features, except the eyebrow, and you can see all of that. Look at peoples' faces, and you'll note that you can see all the way to centerline of most of them.
Secondary profile lines from the front view. Try to make sure that both sides are even. These are not DRAWN even, they are CARVED even, and are a part of the shape that appears during the proper shaping of the head and face. Look at your doll's face, and see if definite shapes are beginning to show, but of course that would not include detail yet. Interestingly though, the places for all the details to be added are almost finished. Unless you get the head and skull carved correctly, the details physically cannot go on correctly, but if the undershape is right, details are a breeze. Of course, they can be painted on to look good even on a basically round ball, so if you're a little fearful of too much shape, don't worry about it. These pencil lines make her look a little skeletal, but when I take the lines off, that will change and we will once again see her face all the way to hairline.
Notice in the lower picture that I have a definite hairline, (also marked with pencil on the middle picture), and have started working on her hair some. I begin by dividing the hair into its rounded shapes if I'm doing ringlets. More hair details later. Don't take any wood off the center back of her head yet, as it may be needed in case face corrections are necessary. My philosophy is that there are at least two faces in any one blank, and maybe more, before she gets pinheaded. I had to take some off the front of Patience's forehead while I was working on the sides, hairline, and chin curves.
The body has also been evened up and narrowed at the shoulders some. I make the blanks out of wood 1 1/4" thick to allow for head and hair space, but it also makes her have linebacker shoulders sometimes.
The bottom picture shows an area left for lip carving. On the profile drawing, I marked that the bottom edge of the bottom lip is 1/2 way from the base of nose to the chin. I usually make a cut under the bottom lip with my knife to keep me from getting the lips too low. Loose lips may sink ships, but low lips are just ugly, usually.
I seem to be having problems with posting the last couple months. I've posted the lip section three times, but each time it disappears. This seems to happen currently with images. Please keep the faith. I also have some drawings that will help with shapes and proportions, but I can't seem to post
The lips will be our next step. I'll be going home on Monday, and we'll progress with the lips as soon as I can get another step done. I can't tell you how much I appreciate your patience and forbearance.